George is a very grown-up sort of place, with a distinct feeling that it sorts the men from the boys, the sort of place you would not wish to mess with. Those familiar with Esher High Street will heave a sigh of relief to know that George is well insulated from it, and once inside there is a 40 foot bar at which a seriously adult range of drinks are there to iron away the more grisly aspects of a thoroughly lousy day.

Having prepared the ground, so to speak, it's time to find your way into the restaurant, well able to comfortably set some 70 covers, with formal service, to savour equally formal food such as tourchon of Suffolk ham, tomato tartare, petite salad, with sweet sherry dressing, wild mushroom ravioli, or pan fried monkfish intriguingly partnered with braised oxtail.

Desserts are no less challenging with white liquorice ice cream, caramelised florelle pear and vanilla chocolate for example. A cleverly compiled wine list certainly lends lustre to a place which is undoubtedly doing the social life of Esher a considerable favour.