George in Rye, The

Once a busy coaching inn, The George is now an even busier and much trendier hotel, with a thriving restaurant at its centre. The whole place has recently (2006) undergone a major refurbishment, one of those proper ones where the best has been retained and the changes are in the best of taste.

Head Chef Rod Grossmann formerly worked at Restaurant Moro in London, by chance owned by the proprietor's sister, Sam Clark. As with so many restaurants nowadays the emphasis is on the local seasonal ingredients, much of it starting life in the farms of Kent and Sussex or the waters of Rye Bay.

A day menu satisfies the passer-by looking for healthy nourishment and a couple of pints of what does you good, though the evening diner will find more sophisticated fare. Game terrine is served with onion marmalade and sourdough toast, or perhaps the stir-fried squid salad with red chilli and spring onions is more to your liking.

The oxtail stew with chorizo, mashed potato and sautéed curly kale is delicious, and the fruits of the sea may be evident in the form of coquille Saint-Jacques mornay, or a whole roast sea bream.

Service is fine and the wine list offers a selection that includes representation from the local vineyards.