Gigalum

Apart from being fairly new to Clapham (late 2006) Gigalum has a main claim to fame in that it seems to have cracked the question of perpetual summer in London, which even in these days of global warming is a bit of a tall order. How has this been done?

First take an ordinary urban front garden, already a natural sun-trap, and corale it with a tasteful bamboo fence, which on its own invokes the spirit of far flung shores. Have a word in the right quarters and before you can say maracas a massive palm tree is being delivered. By now you are well on the way, and it takes only a liberal application of parasols and heaters to complete the transformation of this corner of Clapham into a Mediterranean refuge.

Before long customers are commenting on the sophistication of this oasis, and you have only to supply a cuisine to match. Which, I am happy to report, has been done with considerable flair by Will Campbell-Jones, the guiding hand behind South London's most celebrated DJ Bar, Inigo.

There are few things more irritating than to wend your way along to the local, assuming you are fortunate enough to find the likes of Gigalum within easy reach, only to discover that it's closed. So Rule One - open up at all reasonable hours, possibly even some that aren't. Brunch is a real come-on for people who have worked hard all week and don't want the hassle, so from 11am onwards on Saturdays and Sundays pole up at Gigalum for eggs Benedict, Florentine or Royale, or the traditional Full English, complete with Cumberland sausage, maybe just an omelette and chips.

On Sundays collect some friends together and enjoy a lengthy traditional lunch finishing with a choice of puddings that includes warm apple and rhubarb crumble served with hot custard.

From Monday to Friday they concentrate on the evenings, opening at 4pm, so Gigalum becomes the ideal place to stop off after a tough day. From amongst six starters expect to find duck orange pate with red onion and marmalade and toast, pan fried chorizo with sauté new potatoes and roasted peppers, or chicken skewers with a homemade satay sauce.

Main courses reach for satisfaction rather than sophistication, so expect Scottish rib-eye steak with mixed vegetables and chilli butter jus, lamb shank in a honey jus, wild boar and apple sausages with onion marmalade, creamy mash and gravy, or a very good homemade risotto.

Dining à deux? Not a problem, just choose from an oriental platter, nachos grande, or falafels with tzatziki, salsa and olives served with bread for a surge of Medfest.

A well-chosen wine list offers several by the large or smaller glass, bottle prices stay within a comfortable budget, and there's an admirable range of champagne, with two by the glass. Cocktails are plentiful, and the novelty of sipping a pina colada, seated beneath a palm tree looking out over Clapham Common against a gentle background of throbbing drums, may appeal to you as one not to missed.

Early reports speak of good service, a vibrant atmosphere, and a place where chilling out is not just an idle choice of words.