Gilroy's Restaurant

The routine was invariably the same - leave Ullswater around 7 am, along the A66 to Greta Bridge, breakfast at the Morritt Arms. Forgive me if I digress to the wonderful days of youth, laced with a frisson of John Buchan. It was - and is - because the Morritt has never lost its air of timelessness and tradition, and because what they do is not only done well but with a personal flair that is tremendously engaging.

So let's fast-forward from breakfast to dinner and here we are in Gilroy's Restaurant - Gilroy? Well, he was the local artist who in 11 days in 1946 painted the Mural in the Dickens bar. Dickens? Look, why not just go there and let me get on with setting the broad scene. Gilroy's is full of quirky furniture and antiques, more importantly it's also full of good food, with three menus from which to choose, an a la carte, table d'hote and a Morritt Taster, seven courses for £40.

From the a la carte expect to find starters of grilled black pudding with pan-fried foie gras, apricot and saffron chutney and a ginger soup, or delicious smoked haddock and potato chowder. For main courses the menu is likely to feature rump of Teesdale lamb with a garlic mash, roast loin of fallow deer on a sage rosti, or grilled fillet of beef with horseradish dauphinoise.

To conclude (as the menu says) there is the much travelled sticky toffee pudding, nearer to home than most versions, a wonderful combination of hot cherries with chocolate brownie and Pistachio ice cream, or live dangerously and try a selection of the chef's favourite desserts in miniature.

The wine list contains good choices under the £20 mark and the real-ale brigade will rejoice in well-kept supplies of Timothy Taylor Landlord and Black Sheep best bitter.

Oh, alright - Charles Dickens stayed at Greta Bridge when he was researching Nicholas Nickleby, and in the novel it became the meeting place between Nicholas and Wackford Squeers. Now go and air your knowledge over a pint of Black Sheep in the Dickens Bar.