To describe G&T as a bistro may not be quite accurate - café would probably best suit, but either way here is a real success story only a few minutes from the city centre, widely patronised, particularly as they do deli and takeaway as well. The signature dish, if one may put it that way, is a platter which draws upon a wide range of their stock including the cheeses, cured meats and the many bowls and jars that fight for space on the counter-top, whilst the seafood platter consisting of seafood salad, marinated anchovies and dill herring makes a substantial lunchtime treat. Yes, sandwiches are also available but given the free-flow choices that can be quickly assembled on a plate who cares? Lacking any untoward or unexpected disasters G&T, with its lively yet relaxing atmosphere, will still be making people happy for many years to come.

Reviewed by Michael Tebbutt