Moored in Welsh Back with advantageous views of the surrounding swirl of human and water-side activity, this sturdy and historic barge really responds best at night, with the warmth of the woodwork inside and the reflections on the copious amount of glass at their best.

Starters of Andalucian garlic soup with a poached duck egg and truffle oil, or foie gras and savoy cabbage faggot serve to quell the movement that some diners swear they can feel - well after all the place is afloat, but it's heavy and the water on which it floats is flatter than a billiard table. Roast local venison comes with neaps (Swedes to the English), buttered haggis and whiskey jus, and this close to Wales it would be surprising if some Welsh Black was not on the menu - and there it is, served with sardalaise potato, sauté cep and Madeira sauce.

Puddings follow the same inventive line and crème Catalan with roast black figs and maple syrup leads the way, with warm treacle tart and a dollop of Cornish cream not far behind, or for those to whom no day is complete without cheese a plate of Vacherin with water biscuits and pickles is a welcome option.

This is dining with a difference, and whilst it may not be the Venetian canals, it has a charm all of its own, particularly for those seeking a romantic evening afloat.