Golden Hind, The

Matt Devine (4 July 2008)

There are many elements that make The Golden Hind an attractive place to eat - it is centrally situated, the décor is full of original 20s features, the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, the menu is unpretentious and the food is affordable. However, perhaps the most appealing aspect of this place is represented by three letters that are becoming ever rarer in London - BYO. I was at the restaurant as a member of a birthday party, so being able to bring a few carefully selected bottles of supermarket bubbly to accompany our meal was much appreciated. A neighbouring party made up of slightly younger diners chose to accompany their meal with several cans of strong lager but the sentiment was the same. The fact that diners are able to bring their own booze is central to this restaurant’s ethos, since the majority of the clientele prefer to arrive, have a quick meal with a bottle of wine, and then head off to one of the many bars and clubs in the locale. This in turn ensures that tables are turned over quickly, the restaurant is always full of lively customers and the prices can stay low.

The menu is not extensive, but it doesn’t need to be. This is a fish and chip restaurant and does not pretend to be anything else. The starters included simple classics like garlic prawns, scampi and a generous prawn cocktail. For mains, the usual fish is available and can be fried in a light, crispy batter or steamed with herbs. Deciding to sidestep the controversy surrounding dwindling stocks of North Sea cod and haddock, I went for fried halibut and was not disappointed. The portions were large, and the meat was juicy and firm. Fat, well-cooked chips came on the side, while a separate plate was needed for mushy peas and the essential gherkin. After these two courses, I was too full to even consider a dessert. However, for the more intrepid diner there is a range of hearty British puddings to choose including an artery-clogging spotted dick with custard. After the bill arrived and one of us had performed a quick piece of mental arithmetic, we were delighted to learn that the average price per person was around £13 – despite the fact that we were all now nicely merry. We all left the restaurant to continue our celebrations, knowing that our wallets were sufficiently in tact for a good night.

While there are many other restaurants in the Marylebone area with most offering wider choice and more refined food, the Golden Hind is the perfect spot for a satisfying eat at the beginning of a night out or a quick meal on the way home from the theatre. The classic, inexpensive British dishes have survived despite a growing trend for fine dining, suggesting that if it ain’t broke, there’s no need to fix it.