Gourmet Fish and Chip Company, The

Cuisines from across the world may wax and wane, but British fish and chips goes on for ever. It may be reinvented from time to time but as with anything basic and relatively simple it is difficult to make any major improvement.

However, in the Walk of Fame, now a Brighton institution, of which more below, The Gourmet Fish and Chip Company has come as near to it as one might hope for. What has been achieved is nothing less than the transformation of this feisty dish into the 21st century.

One of the problems with fish and chips is of course that it has this rather down-market image. Gourmet has fixed that by making it possible for diners to enjoy this nutritious and healthy meal in surroundings that would do ample justice to some of the trendier, one might say snootier cuisines, thus giving it a dignity and persona that it has long deserved.

Brighton weather being what it is there is also an outside area where more informal eating and people watching can be indulged in over a glass of wine or a few beers.

All the fish is caught in the North Atlantic and sent down from Grimsby before being cooked to order in pure groundnut oil (allergy free). Whilst takeaway is an option it seems a shame not to enjoy the attractive location.

Main courses start with cod fillet or goujons, moving on to rock salmon, plaice, haddock, salmon fishcakes, whole tail scampi and calamari. Fish can be cooked in a light crispy batter, breaded, grilled or steamed. They also offer a gourmet fish platter for 2 or 3 people which compromises cod and haddock goujons, salmon fishcakes, whole tail scampi and calamari and chips. All of their fish is served with homemade tartare sauce. Just to display a little sense of compromise you can also order jumbo sausages, with or without batter.

Children regard Gourmet as a real treat, and for them there is a special Star Meal to include choice of gourmet fish fingers, jumbo sausage, fish nuggets or fish cake, all served with chips or mash and free glass of milk, apple juice or orange juice. Incredible value for £4, never mind the increase in your street-cred with the kids. They have also introduced slush drinks and ice-cream milkshakes.

Mushy peas may be traditional but there are plenty of options at Gourmet, from baked potatoes, through mashed, homemade coleslaw, mixed salad, tomato and onion salad, pickle dill and the bread basket.

A good selection of desserts adds lustre to the meal, with apple and blackberry crumble, treacle pudding, spotted dick served with either custard, cream or ice-cream. Also on the menu is chocolate fudge cake, choc ole, go mango, trio of ice-cream and you can even have the added indulgence of a shot of Baileys or Tia Maria over your ice-cream.

Gourmet specialises in Illy coffee, a particularly rich and pungent brand, the aroma of which floats across the open spaces of the Walk of Fame, a cultural introduction to Brighton in 2002 that celebrates many of the distinguished, talented and famous individuals associated with Brighton and Hove.

A widely spread wine list completes the style and quality of this excellent restaurant. The takeaway bill of fare reflects the main courses available within.