Up and coming young chef Ashley Paynton is on a mission to wow the taste buds of North East England and has chosen the idyllic cathedral city of Durham from which to do it. I think it takes a bit of nerve to call your restaurant Gourmet Spot, but nerve or not, here is something new and interesting in Durham, that jewel of the north, once described as "one of the finest architectural experiences in Europe" and voted Best British City by readers of posh lifestyle magazine Condé Nast Traveller.

If one detects a certain El Bulli influence here you would be completely on track. Well, how's this for starters? Mustard ice cream and roasted pork belly with apple caviar; a touch of the Heston's perhaps? And how about roasted loin of venison, stilton royale, red wine salsify and smoked chocolate oil or even braised ox cheek with fillet of beef, smoked mash, Bourguignon garnish and purple mustard.

Don't misunderstand me. These are dishes that have been coated with a more verbal approach to presentation, are very edible indeed and have less mystery about them than you might at first think. They are fun, made mainly with quality local produce and are great conversation creators. Let me leave you with a dessert of butterscotch bavarois, pistachio and olive oil sponge with blood orange sorbet. Now if you think about that with an open mind a certain logic emerges - well I think so.

Within the restaurant a chic style is apparent, with plenty of red glitter walls combining quite well with dark wood and metal. It has a relaxed and modern feel and with just 24 covers will always be somewhere to get away from the crowds. It's perfect for special occasions and treats and has the added bonus that it is attached to a hotel so diners can easily retire to bed after enjoying a meal of the finest quality.