The Goya restaurant chain was established in 1993 and its success has never been in doubt. Specialising in authentic Spanish tapas each site offers locals and visitors alike an excellent range of this increasingly popular Latin/European food. Stylish decor provides a mixture of sophisticated ambience and Spanish design, which, combined with the uncomplicated food and friendly staff, makes for a great lunch or evening out.

Passing through the handsome and commanding entrance is to find that Goya Pimlico has one floor as a tapas bar, another as the restaurant with intimate alcoves that exude an atmosphere of intrigue and intimacy, in fact the sort of place where you would not be surprised to find secrets being traded or risky liaisons enacted. However in summer sheer force majeure ensures that the business of eating, drinking and possibly even flirting flows out on to the pavement, exposed for all to see, so be sure to choose your weather.

One of the off-putting factors - in fact about the only one - is that there are so many of them, which can be confusing. Here at Goya there are between 30 and 40 choice of tapas, all sufficiently different to carry their own appeal, so no real problem at all. Kidneys cooked in Tio Pepe sherry, creamy croquettes, bean casserole or pork fillet done the Galician way are but a few of this attractive range of mini-dishes across which one can graze the afternoon away, or restore the equilibrium in the evening.

The main menu takes of course a wider view, with starters of the soup of the day, gazpacho, fresh oysters and melon with Serrano ham, or Scotch smoked salmon. There is nothing to stop substitution of starters with tapas, the choice is entirely yours. A tasty range of salads invokes avocado, Thornback crabs, asparagus and cheese, bacon and croutons.

With an extensive range of coastline upon which to draw it is not surprising that Spanish cuisine makes the most of its unfettered access to the sea, and the main course menu opens with seven seafood dishes, with a fresh seafood casserole done Catalan style, paella with shellfish and chicken, or shellfish only, and a House Speciality, the grilled seafood.

A dozen or so meat dishes do ample justice to the cause of carnivores with most of the classic cuts grilled to order. The return of veal to the menu, more humane methods having been found to produce this delightful meat we are told, is celebrated with an escalope in lemon sauce or done the traditional way with breadcrumbs and piquillo peppers. The agonising choice between duck in sherry sauce with olives and shallots or fillet of beef with Dijon mustard, caramelised brandy and cream is not one I would care to have to make too often.

As night follows day so do desserts make their appearance on cue, and Catalan cream with coffee infusion leads the way for many. Spanish cuisine is keen on its fortified wines but there is a good range of liqueurs for those who treasure their Sambuca or Grand Marnier. The wine list rarely strays over the Spanish border, starting at a sensible price structure and keeping well clear of the stratosphere.

For details of events, party arrangements and special offers do click on their Website, as colourful as the food but much less tasty.