Graffiti

Cambridge - rather surprisingly - is not particularly well served for the aspiring gastronome, so the addition of Graffiti at the Felix Hotel to the available options has been universally welcomed by the locals. The Observer commented in 2005 "A cool, modern oasis. . . .a marvellous restaurant and all the comforts you can expect from a smart boutique hotel".

Awarded 2 Rosettes by the AA, the menu covers a generous interpretation of modern British with hints of the Mediterranean. Overlooking the terrace and garden, the candlelit Graffiti is open to both residents and a wider public, and encourages a relaxed ambience against a smart background well lined with contemporary art. In winter an open fire adds to the feeling of luxurious living.

Bedrooms are luxurious, as one might expect, perhaps best described as possessing an opulent simplicity, many with walk in Rainshower showers and a bath. King size Hypnos beds combines with the finest Egyptian cotton bed linen and duvets to ensure the best possible night's sleep. All the modern IT 'smells and bells' are supplied including a laptop safe, and wireless internal hotspots in both bedrooms and public rooms. Four bedrooms are located in the Victorian part of the hotel, the remainder in an adjoining wing. Rooms for the disabled are also available.

A set price lunch menu at £12.95 for two courses, £16.95 for 3 represents some of the best value in town, with a café bar offering lighter dishes for lunch and dinner.

The modern menu is an inspired assembly of dishes, and a meal could commence with twice baked local beetroot and pickled walnut soufflé with gold and candy beet, or a crab salad with citrus mousse. A terrine, made with free range chicken and wild mushrooms is served with simply gorgeous honey soused vegetables. Why don't more chefs do this? The bread selection accompanied by sundried tomato pesto, green olive tapenade and beetroot and herb infused oil make a refreshing change, though closer examination reveals a warm Wigmore cheese fondant with white onion cream and Aspall Suffolk cyder sorbet.

Main courses yield a veritable harvest of enticing choices, not least of which is the seafood trittico; lobster ravioli, saffron and mascarpone risotto with Scottish langoustines, Isle of Skye scallop with pesto. The Moroccan spiced Telmara farm duck arrives at table with preserved lemon Israeli couscous, and coriander oil.

Desserts of greengage and almond tartlet with elderflower crème anglaise, or Key Lime pie with lemon espuma and lychee sorbet are but two of the temptations that await, though my preference would be centred on the chocolate melting cake with strawberry sorbet.

A more than usually attractive wine list includes an excellent range of by-the-glass options guaranteed to meet the great majority of aspirations. This is followed by an impressive collection of house wines, including the house champagne at a very reasonable £30.50. Prices in general hover between the £30/£40 mark, and there are more expensive but still reasonably priced offerings to cope with that special occasion.

Private rooms and the terrace are also available for occasions when only something rather special will do.

Little more than a mile from the centre of Cambridge, regarded by many as the most civilised of our University cities, Hotel Felix is well-placed for access to main link roads, business parks and the M11. For more information, including further details on staying at the Hotel Felix, do visit their Website.