Green's

Green's came to Whitby at the start of the new Millennium and its story since then is one of success and progress. Founded by Rob and Emma Green, who went into the business for all the right reasons, theirs is a story of vision and purpose and Green's relates closely to the desperate times that afflict the fishing industry, the preservation of the countryside and the heritage of the East Coast in general.

In the short space of time they have been operating the accolades have flowed, and deservedly so as you will quickly find out when you visit this charismatic restaurant on the Abbey side of the Swing Bridge.

The proximity of the sea and the countryside makes the sourcing of first-rate fresh ingredients a pleasure. Dishes such as fresh mussels with tomato, white wine and garlic and carpaccio of local fillet beef with Cipriani dressing and rocket salad tend to attain an added piquancy under such conditions, but for a truly sensational starter look for the seared Whitby squid with potato, chorizo and garlic. A signature dish of bouillabaisse with rouille and croutes should not be lightly ignored, nor the tempura of fresh Whitby langoustines with a mild red Thai curry sauce.

Surrounded by such largesse it is inevitable that the menu will fluctuate - to be sure of a particular dish a quick phone call can be helpful all round. Amongst the main courses expect to find a chunk of roasted Whitby turbot, as likely as not brought in by the trawler "Good Intent", with a ragout of queen scallops, some prime selected Yorkshire beef, a char-grilled sirloin with real chips, or a trio of Moroccan style Ryedale lamb in the form of a pan fried chop with warm aubergine salad, noisette with hot mint sauce and roast neck fillet with chickpea purée.

I was very impressed with the number of meat dishes in relation to fish, displaying an open-ness of mind not always encountered in what is primarily a restaurant the monitors on fish.

Amongst desserts frequently sighted at Green's is the Yorkshire curd tart with clotted cream, or a white chocolate cheesecake with dark chocolate and orange sauce. An unusual, but very pleasing dish is the trip of peaches - poached melba, peach yoghurt with a little doughnut and a Bellini shooter.

The arrangements for cheese would satisfy the most demanding enthusiast, culminating in a grande assiette of selected cheeses and a decanter of Porto Pocas, served with walnuts, apple and savoury biscuits.

A comprehensive and well travelled wine list embraces many of the known favourites with some tasteful additions that should bring out the best in those who enjoy their wine. House wines start at under £12.

Times change fast at Greens; a recent innovation is the opening of Green's Deli, with a range of homemade chutneys, oils and chocolates, with mouth watering hampers for special occasions. Greens features in the Egon Ronay Guide, the Michelin Guide, and A Taste of the North East.