Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Greens of Duke Street is an English institution, a haunt of art dealers and others who take ill to change, particularly the unnecessary variety, which embraces most of it. For over twenty years Greens has made lighter the burden of having to undertake gainful employment for gentlemen who somewhere along the way misplaced the silver spoon - and others. Where does one start? Well, why not with the starters? The smoked fish platter of cod's roe, trout, eel and salmon, all available separately if required; game rillette with shallot marmalade and rosemary toast or smoked duck with watercress and pear salad.

In the present climate of excitement the main course of smoked haddock "Parker Bowles" could hardly pass by unnoticed. Grilled hand-dived scallops with leeks, bacon and parsley liquor is a regular favourite, but then the same can be said of so many of the very recognisable and unspoiled dishes on the menu. For those who like a certain regularity in their arrangements, each day of the week has its own signature dish, so if it's Wednesday it's grilled lamb cutlets.

Amongst the desserts expect to find sticky toffee pudding, or rice pudding with cranberry and orange compote. Leaving on one side the regrettable lack of a savoury it comes as no surprise to find that cheese features largely, with such offerings as Cumberland Smoked, Waterloo, Ragstone, Montgomery's cheddar, Yarg and Cashel Blue. You may well feel that an investment in a bottle of the Dow '70 is more than justified.

But whatever your requirements you will be treated with exactly the same civility as everybody else.