Grill at The Dorchester, The

It would be a sad commentary on affairs if a national institution such as The Dorchester was anything less than top of the form in any of its departments. Whilst it may therefore come as no surprise that their flagship Grill under the noted Aiden Byrne is in excellent shape, it is reassuring to know that English cuisine done with imagination and flair can still lead the world.

Aiden joined The Dorchester from Danesfield House Hotel and Spa where he was the Executive Chef of the Oak Room and Orangery Restaurants. Prior to this, Aiden spent 2 years as the Head Chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant, Tom Aikens, one of London's most critically acclaimed restaurants. A protégé of Chef Tom Aikens, Aiden had previously worked with him as a sous chef at Pied à Terre. Aiden has also worked at a number of other Michelin-starred establishments in Ireland and the UK, including three years as Head Chef at Adlards Restaurant in Norwich, where at the age of 22 he won a Michelin star.

Recently The Grill, along with the rest of the hotel, has undergone a major refurbishment, and despite dire predictions about changes of ownership and loss of tradition has emerged even better than it was before, its traditional grandeur updated, its mannerisms for which it was so renowned, intact and tweaked where needed.

The rich and opulent décor amply matches the quality of the food and service which is perfectly manned with never a hint of a grovel, all that any reasonable person asks. Whoever trained or found the staff here, knows exactly what it is all about.

Carefully sourced ingredients are apparent from the outset, smoked eel and apple setting the right note, with a flavour that utterly convinces. White onion and Parmesan soup with veal shin ravioli vies with Cornish scallops roasted with truffle and white chocolate risotto. Dublin Bay prawns with broccoli puree, ricotta dumplings and caviar are as fresh as an Irish tipster, but for sheer decadence give the braised trotters with Clonakilty black pudding and prune puree a chance.

The British love affair with fish and other creatures of the sea is reflected in a menu that certainly takes heed of this trait and of the nine main courses normally on offer no less than four are from the sea, starting with Dover sole with chicken livers and artichokes, or native lobster thermidor partnered with veal sweetbreads. Squab pigeon with pickled cabbage and sweet garlic butter sauce, saddle of venison baked in bison grass with fig and bitter chocolate puree and baked beetroot, for 2 persons, make for gourmet eating, with pot au feu lamb and New Forest pine with anchovies making for a good flavour mix.

The Grill classics, oak smoked wild Scottish salmon, a grilled Dover sole with sauce bearnaise, and roast rib of Aberdeen Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes are of course as much part of the Grill scene as ever.

A menu of the day served from lunctime to to 7.30pm offers two or three courses, with three choices from each course. A typical three course meal could consist of salt cod pannacotta with poached quails' eggs, Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding, followed by chocolate and lime mousse with banana and coconut parfait. Two courses cost £25, three for a very reasonable £27.50.

A wine list of truly international proportions and quality awaits those with good taste and deep pockets.

For menu changes and other information do check their Website.