Grill at The Dorchester, The

You can expect a national institution such as The Dorchester to be on top of the form in all its departments. Whilst it may therefore come as no surprise that their flagship Grill, under the care of Head Chef Brian Hughson is in excellent shape, it is reassuring to know that English cuisine done with imagination and flair can still lead the world.

The Grill, along with the rest of the hotel, has undergone a major refurbishment, and despite dire predictions about changes of ownership and loss of tradition, it has emerged even better than it was before, its traditional grandeur updated, its mannerisms for which it was so renowned, intact and tweaked where needed.

The rich and opulent décor amply matches the quality of the food and service which is perfectly manned with never a hint of grovel, all that any reasonable person asks. Whoever trained or found the staff here, knows exactly what it is all about.

Brian Hughson's pedigree shines through his menu of traditional British and classic grill dishes. With twenty years of culinary experience which includes cooking for the British royalty, and his prior stint at Gary Rhodes's W1, Pétrus and the Savoy Grill, one would expect a certain level of proficiency and he certainly does not disappoint.

Carefully sourced ingredients are apparent from the outset, smoked eel and apple setting the right note, with a flavour that utterly convinces. Salt cod mousse with pork belly, red pepper, shrimp chorizo and olive oil vies with artichoke salad with pink fir apple potatoes and truffled egg yolk. Denham castle lamb with fennel risotto and confit garlic and rose veal with apple fondant, sweet onion and nutmeg make a good combination; but for sheer decadence give the honey roast squab pigeon with white asparagus and smoked peanut crust a chance.

The British love affair with fish and other creatures of the sea is reflected in a menu that certainly takes heed of this trait and of the nine main courses normally on offer no less than four are from the sea, starting with Dover sole with béarnaise sauce, or poached west coast turbot with razor clams, spring vegetable and lemon thyme butter. Squab pigeon with pickled cabbage and sweet garlic butter sauce, saddle of venison baked in bison grass with fig and bitter chocolate puree and baked beetroot, for two persons, make for gourmet eating, with pot au feu lamb and New Forest pine with anchovies making for a good mix of flavours.

The Grill classics, oak smoked wild Scottish salmon and roast rib of Aberdeen Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes are of course as much part of the carte du jour.

A menu of the day served during lunchtime offers two or three courses, with three choices from each course. A typical three course meal could consist of salt cod pannacotta with poached quails' eggs, Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding, followed by chocolate and lime mousse with banana and coconut parfait. Two courses cost £25, three for a very reasonable £27.50.

A wine list of featuring Old and New World wines are at hand to accompany your meal and experienced sommeliers will help you make the right choice.

For menu changes and other information do check their Website.