Grill on The Corner - Glasgow, The

Glasgow's appetite for eating is only equalled by its capacity for drinking, and that means serious stuff, none of this poncey approach you find in other places that shall remain nameless, even if the compass is pointing south.At The Grill on the Corner both activities exist in perfect harmony in a building which is a real credit to essentially Victorian Glasgow. Inside the décor has a richness that matches the sauces, with plenty of wood and metal around, chandeliers dripping with faux diamonds and all the feel of an anxiety free comfort zone that will look after your needs efficiently and without too much fuss. Right first time!

This is a place for people who take their food seriously and Head Chef Adrian Kavanha is the right man for the job. If you are a fish enthusiast it will not take you very long to pick up on the day's catch on display, and lobsters straight from the tank.

You are, however, more than likely to be diverted by the unmistakable aroma of smoked haddock chowder as a waiter passes your table, or chicken skewered on lemongrass sopped with a Thai red curry paste. Good start!

The everlasting favourite of roasted duck with cucumber, spring onion and hoi sin sauce rarely fails to be a hot favourite, whatever the prevailing cuisine, and grilled sea bass fillets with braised fennel, clams and cream sauce are not so far behind. But it's the K-word that gives the buzz, and if you want some of that beautiful meat without having to spend £40 on a steak why not head for the Kobe burger at less than a mere £17. This may be pricey for a burger but the quality and state-on-your-plate is faultless.

Chicken and horseradish sauce are not normally sharing a bunk, but see what you make of the chicken pot pie with horseradish mash, and Adrian and the boys will be happy to create intense heat within the charcoal pit so that grill on the corner can be translated into reality. Desserts of sticky toffee pudding, peach melba mess and warm chocolate fondant cake are amongst the regular appearances in that area.

Service is precise and cheerful, the liquid arrangements from the smart wine list to well kept beer are as you would expect. They serve late night and there is live music and dancing. Glasgow has come a long way to keep pace with the revolution in eating out, and there are few places where this is better demonstrated than Grill on the Corner.