Gurnard's Head, The

The team that brought us The Felin Fach Griffin, that increasingly popular haven of laid back excellence in the Brecons, have mounted a similar operation, this time in West Cornwall; take one famous old inn, mix with the special atmosphere of a dramatic Atlantic coastline only 500 yards away, add dashes of local ingredients and you have the basis for success. The Gurnard's Head, a handsome building of classic proportions, was the subject of a spirited refurbishment in March 2006.

It re-opened the following month, refashioned by its owners, Charles and Edmund Inkin into another opportunity to pursue their strongly held aim, 'the simple things in life done well'. Essential to the operation is a top-notch team in the kitchen, led here by Matt Williamson, formerly Head Chef at the Lansdowne in Primrose Hill.

The roots of Matt's approach to the preparation of food are deep in his native New Zealand where fresh, local ingredients are par for the course. Cornwall also is noted for its outstanding range of produce and it's no surprise to see that succulently fresh seafood forms an important part of their cuisine.

With the emphasis on informality lunch and supper can be enjoyed in either the bar or the restaurant. The lunch menu will probably be on the blackboard, designed to cover the varying needs of those for whom this is a brief stop to take on body fuel, or others with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, the food and the friendly atmosphere.

Supper is an occasion approached like everything else with a relaxed air, even though there is nothing relaxed about the quality and underlying attention to detail of the food and drink. Around five starters appear on the list of starters, amongst which expect to find, depending on the season, whole crab claw with mayonnaise and toast, Corn Brea goat's cheese, broad beans and Little Gems, crisp and totally fresh, or an escabeche of red mullet with red peppers and marjoram.

The lemon sole yielded by the waters at the base of the craggy local cliffs are, in the view of many, unbeatably good. Here, Matt gives the whole fish a hazelnut crust, with sauté Cornish Earlies and spinach. A local rib-eye of beef is served with red onion marmalade, leek purée, horseradish crème fraîche, and chips.

Back to the sea again for roast turbot, with broad beans, pea shoots and beurre blanc, a delicate and wholly delightful blend of gentle flavours. Vegetarians will find an equally attractive mix with sweet potato, thyme and red onion rotollo with marinated radicchio.

Such simple dishes as duck and raisin terrine, pear chutney and soda bread, or grilled mackerel, with purple sprouting broccoli (the real thing, not the all-green variety that masquerades all too often in supermarkets), anchovy and rosemary butter, with new potatoes, makes eating fit for the best.

A mention of wine at The Gurnard's Head brings an added sparkle of interest to proceedings. Assisted by Bibendum Wines, a list of around 30 choices from New and Old World has been assembled, with the great majority under £20. This has been achieved by limiting the profit, making for outstanding value, particularly at the top end of the list. Beers have sound local credentials at prices that are kind to those for whom this house is their local.