Hallion, The

Described as "Edinburgh's answer to the Groucho" this is a pretty apt description of the Edinburgh newcomer that is rocking them in the sporran. Totally cool, not to say tres chic, Hallion aims to provide the home from home that the well-heeled man, or woman, about town hankers after when away from the homestead. They've thought of just about everything and the only surprise is that nobody has done it before; on second thoughts I suppose they have but never, ever with the same degree of sophistication and sang-froid that prevails at The Hallion.

In terms of dining Hallion divides itself into two distinct areas. A discrete selection of well-chosen sandwiches, plats and soups de jour is available in the bars, but those with more extensive targets in their sights the restaurant beckons. Food and its preparation comes from an international stable, simply presented and of the comfort variety, with a flair that never gets unruly.

For starters choose from a collection that includes half a dozen oysters from Loch Etive, served au naturel or Rockefeller, or risotto of morels with summer truffle shavings. When it comes to mains the more bucolic might consider excellent smoked beef and ale sausages served with bubble and squeak and onion jus, or at the other end of the scale that king of the sea, poached turbot with saffron tagliatelle and glazed petit summer vegetables. From the grill a selection of steaks, with a 16oz ribeye or the full roast rib treatment from very traceable stock, long-hung and able to look you straight in the eye.

Puddings follow the same pattern from the baked cherry and almond clafoutis, served hot with vanilla ice cream, or the caramelised lemon tart served with red wine figs and clotted cream.