Hamburger Union - Soho

I have long maintained that there is nothing wrong with most forms of food, even those to which we have had the misfortune to sometimes give a bad name, such as chips and - as here at Hamburger Union, the ubiquitous burger, with apologies to colleagues and friends in Glasgow.

Because, believe me, there is nothing to which any rational person could take exception with their eponymous dish, burgers of quality that have enjoyed careful preparation and have a pedigree which could only come from grass-reared cattle and proper treatment at all stages.

Order your burger and it arrives swiftly, jacketed in crusty Portuguese rolls. Seasoning is light, the outside bears evidence of close contact with the heat source, and within the meat is pink and juicy. Nor are vegetarians forgotten, with haloumi or field mushrooms.

Chips were mentioned earlier - nothing wrong with chips apart from the fact that they make some people larger than they might otherwise be, particularly if eaten to excess, as does a whole lot of other food. Just make sure they are cooked properly, forget snooty ideas, and enjoy them. At Hamburger Union they come thick and crisp and not oozing with grease.

The choice is widened by the inclusion of fillet steak and chicken sandwiches, as well as the much celebrated cult sandwich, the Brindisa chorizo, with rocket and piquillo pepper. How refreshing it is to see the barriers of culinary pomposity crumbling under the weight of refreshed thought about the way in which we treat and enjoy dishes that have not always enjoyed a good press.

Time Out said: "In the last couple of years, several gourmet hamburger bars have opened in London. Their mission: to dispel the fast-food myth that burgers must be rubbery, painted with fake char-grill lines and contain at least one variety of woodland animal. Hamburger Union, arriving fashionably late to the party, is a welcome addition to the gourmet burger fold.

Hamburger Union's burgers are everything they should be: dark and slightly bitter from char-grilling on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside. The robust bun does not self-destruct when lifted from the plate, and the ketchup-mayo combo does not oppress the flavour of the meat like some burger relishes do.

An interesting variation is the 'protein-style' burger which, in deference to Dr Atkins, is wrapped in lettuce instead of a bun. One point: be sure to specify how you want the meat cooked, as they will not ask you and the default is 'well-done'."

What is unique about Hamburger Union is the simplicity and speed of service. How it works:

1. Place your order and pay at the kitchen counter.

2. Take a numbered ticket and pick up your napkins and cutlery.

3. Choose your table, place the ticket in the clip.

4. Relax, and everything will be brought to you.

They also provide a take away service, just complete step 1 above.

More information, including menus, is available on their attractively presented Website.