Harbourside Restaurant, Pier Hotel

On the quay in the heart of old Harwich, with splendid views of the Stour and Orwell estuaries the Pier at Harwich combines two historic properties and offers a choice of two quality restaurants and fourteen comfortable bedrooms. The Pier is a very much a family concern, it is owned by the Milsom family who also are the proprietors of the highly acclaimed Le Talbooth Restaurant, Maison Talbooth Hotel and Milsoms Hotel and Restaurant in Dedham, near Colchester.

Their 14 bedrooms are meticulously furnished and evoke a family-friendly feel, down to details like private bathrooms, satellite TV, minibars, and a welcome tea and coffee tray. Little guests are even offered a special sofa bed. You're left in no doubt about the nautical connections throughout the décor of the whole hotel, and the ambience is pleasantly carefree. Happily this also applies to the staff, who are relaxed and friendly but effective in a jolly sort of way.

On the first floor with large windows to make the most of the view, the Harbourside offers a sophisticated atmosphere and a wide ranging menu heavily laced with seafood, as one might expect from a property against whose foundations the sea itself washes and gurgles. Choices can vary from the traditional such as a classic Dover sole to the modern and oriental. Grilled fillet of brill competes with pan-fried skate wing with capers in nut-brown butter and roast middle-cut of cod fillet.

Starters offer a plate of cold-poached lobster - simply served with lemon and mayonnaise, tempura prawns and asparagus with a sweet chilli sauce, and naturally half a dozen rock oysters served on ice. The smokehouse produces the most superb home smoked salmon with peeled brown shrimps, or a warm salad of smoked roast duck breast with grapefruit, apple and walnut oil dressing. But for real treats the smoked haddock fishcake takes some beating.

Mains follow a similar piscatorial theme, but some concessions have been made with roast best end of English lamb, pan-fried sirloin steak with fat chips, and roast stuffed pork tenderloin with apricots and almonds, all on offer. There is also a very intriguing invitation to customers who would like the 'ultimate' fish and chips where goujons of monkfish are coated with tempura batter, served with fat chips, mushy peas and tartare dip. Dishes are appetizing, generous and exceptional value.

It is pleasing to report that after the sustained effort of creating such wonderful starters and main courses, the desserts are every bit up to the same standard. Puds that catch the eye include warm ginger bread pudding with cranachan cream, honey and whisky syrup, and mango pannacotta with pineapple and mango salsa.

There is an extensive wine list centred on white wines with a particularly strong South African section. For information on both the hotel and the two restaurants, their Website provides masses of detail from the menus to the wine list and more.