Havelock Tavern, The

Like a phoenix from the ashes the Havelock Tavern has risen again, defying the worst efforts of mealy mouthed officialdom, a faithful replica of its former illustrious self. Those who have been on a long absence might be forgiven for thinking that nothing had happened.

The menu never stays the same for any length of time but amongst its offerings expect to see courgette, fennel and chilli soup, fillets of red mullet wrapped in Parma ham with young spinach, green beans and salsa verde, Thai red beef curry with basmati and coriander, or a grilled leg of lamb steak. Other days may see braised leg of rabbit with olives, tomatoes, peppers and green beans, or smoked haddock kedgeree with soft boiled egg and sweet chilli sauce.

Puddings of chocolate and ginger cake with mascarpone, and an interesting cheese plate are not unknown. A no-nonsense wine list manages to cover wide territory at prices that are user-friendly.

It has been suggested that The Havelock is a gastropub, but this is a step too far. It may have risen from the ashes but its approach to cuisine remains pub-with-food, which it does superbly well, so please Pete and Jonny, keep it that way. And leave your credit card at home because they are pre-that-era as well. Cash will do nicely.