Hawksmoor

This is a carnivore's paradise. There can be few restaurants in London where such meticulous care is taken with the quality and preparation of their meat cuts, all of which comes from the Ginger Pig, therefore totally reliable.

Starters of Tamworth ribs, those friendly happy porkers who make the supreme sacrifice that we might enjoy - at least the poor blighters do not have to endure the trials and tribulations of old age - or perhaps a crab and monksbeard salad, grilled scallops with salsa verde even, sets the show on the road.

They boast there is no cut of meat they cannot produce for their customers, even if some need a little notice, but off the shelf there is bone-in sirloin, hangars, rump of lamb, with whole seabream or aubergine Parmigiana for the others. Renowned for their chips, the cocktails come not far behind for virtuosity.

The thing about the Hawksmoor is the reliability. There are no false claims, no culinary bravado, if they say they can do something it means just that. How refreshing in an age of mediocrity and excuses. Those who mourn the decline of the cauliflower can find it here, cooked by someone who has the imagination to see this wonderful veg for what it is, prepared with cheese as a dish in its own right almost.

Everything else about this rock solid watering hole and restaurant is of the same calibre. Go there with confidence and keen anticipation.