Haxted Mill Riverside Brasserie & Bar, The

There are very few settings for restaurants that can truly be described as unique; however, it certainly applies in the case of Haxted Mill, where their wonderful candlelit terrace overlooks the mill race and pond, ideal for dining al fresco in the summer. The restaurant is situated in the beautiful Eden Valley in the heart of the Kent countryside, where you can watch the sun go down over the fields, and sip on a glass of well-chilled premier cru Chablis, whilst eating the finest 'fruits de mer' this side of the English Channel. In winter, you can enjoy the warm comfort of their superbly beamed dining room.

Until recently David Peek has reigned supreme in the kitchen, but now (2007) after 23 years he has retired from the kitchen and an extraordinarily talented young chef from Lille has picked up the baton. Formerly from the one star Michelin restaurant, L'Huitriere, Olivier Betremieux has already introduced a new menu that incorporates some of the old favourites that have helped the Mill gain its carefully built up reputation.

Fortunately it looks as though the standard of food at Haxted Mill will continue to match the quality of the surroundings. Starters include diver caught sautéed scallops, cauliflower puree, Parmesan crisp and veal jus, or roasted pigeon on a bed of Le Puy lentils. A cold appetizer of air-dried traditional Scottish smoked salmon is cured in a way that spans the centuries.

There is about their menus more than a whiff of the bold and adventurous, and other starters of grilled spicy quail on lemon and coriander dahl, or Louisiana blackened prawns with a red pepper reduction tend to underline the point. For those who insist on their salad, they seldom come much better than the whole cracked crab, with salad frites and home-made mayonnaise, a real exercise in indulgence.

Main courses carry forward the same high standards with pan fried fillet of line caught cod accompanied by a light mustard and chive sauce leading for the fish element, closely followed by another Louisiana recipe, blackened red snapper done with citrus rice, vegetable stir fry and red pepper reduction. That fine dish, roast saddle of hare is served simply with creamed Savoy cabbage and confit of beetroot, a strong main meal that carries sturdy flavours akin to venison, and is very filling.

And talking of venison, red Highland deer, that symbol of the monarch of the glen, makes regular appearances at Haxted Mill, accompanied by a rich game sauce with just a hint of Valhrona dark chocolate.

The humble rabbit is capable, with a little skill, of being turned into an attractive dish, with Armagnac, prunes d'Agen and lardons in a rich flavour-full sauce. In season you are likely to be enjoying vegetables, herbs and salads grown in what used to be the Miller's garden.

A clever wine list demonstrates only too clearly that it is not necessary to spend on wine sums of money that could diminish your pleasure in the meal overall, yet still enjoy carefully chosen class wines from the world over that have character, with a sensible number of them by the glass.

However, Haxted Mill is much more than just a restaurant. They also have jazz days, host weddings, offer light lunches and have set menus on offer on certain days that represent excellent value. For further information view their very comprehensive Website.