Hereford Road

If there is anyone who might be termed the godfather of English food, that title would have to go Fergus Henderson of St John, (see in this Guide), who has not only relentlessly pursued the path of what he terms 'nose to tail' eating, but has also produced many disciples, one of whom is Tom Pemberton, who has opened Hereford Road. The site, in the relentlessly trendy area of Notting Hill, has a long pedigree; originally it was a Victorian butcher's shop but many will fondly remember it as Veronica's, which was exceedingly popular some years back, its speciality being roast duck, a fashionable dish in the eighties, when the place was in its heyday.

The style of the food very much follows the gospel as laid down by Fergus, with simple no-nonsense descriptions and relatively straightforward dishes, relying on robustness of flavour and quality of raw materials, rather than a complicated fancy string of ingredients, an approach that a number of other well-known chefs might carefully consider. The menu varies frequently, according partly to what is in season and the whims of the owner-chef, so typical starters might offer smoked cod's roe on toast or salted duck and pickled chicory.

Game could be represented by braised rabbit with fennel and bacon and roasted guinea fowl, whilst a strong fish section like baked plaice or lemon sole completes the main course section. One of the problems that many English restaurants have is its puddings, how to refine them down from so many strong possibilities, as everyone has their own favourite; so Eton mess, almond and orange cake, and a selection of English cheeses naturally provide a strong finish to what should have been a memorable meal for all the right reasons.