Hermitage, The

After pacing around The Hermitage one soon discovers that the 1920s style décor and the buzzing atmosphere are all meant to evoke images of a French café, but the lovely large garden with a fountain also has a significant appeal. Those with a predisposition for all things sunny could head out for a cup of morning coffee, lunch or an evening meal.

Although seafood is their forte, a decent selection of signature meats also vie for attention. The famed skate knobs with rocket and coriander could first emerge from the kitchen, or local scallops poached in white wine and fine herbs. This could be followed by fresh fillet of beef cooked in olive oil with black pepper, and finished with a hot sweet, brandy sauce, or English lamb cooked slightly rare. The combination of langoustines and mussels with garlic, tomatoes, small potatoes, paprika and Provençal herbs is a revelation; add to this a dash of fresh cream, and enjoy the mutation of flavours.