Well, I suppose it had to come, so although listed as a café, probably the more trendy description would be 'gastrocafé', much as it appals me. Hilliard is more of an exception in that it does have some seating space, though the 'grabbit-and-run' format is very much part of the way it works.

The movement towards well-sourced ingredients is also in evidence, and the British cuisine is simple and well prepared, working to a daily-changing menu under Louis Solley, a man who has packed an awful lot of meaningful experience into his working years so far. The menu will normally contain one large main, some smaller dishes, salads and sandwiches - simplicity itself. To broaden the clientele Hilliards will also deliver fresh sandwiches and cakes. Jams and pickles are made on the premises.

This changes in the evening with a wider variety of main dishes on offer and there is a licence. In a way these sort of cafes which are springing up all over represent the sad side of our lives where everybody is so manic they cannot find time to stop, not only for food but some reflection as well. But the need is there and it is encouraging to see it being so ably met by people like those at Hilliard.