Hollow Bottom, The

It is not often one can say a pub is unique, but I really think I can cross my heart and say just that about The Hollow Bottom, not so much about the food and drink, though that is exemplary, but because of its close relationship with The Cheltenham Races. In the words of owners Hugh Kelly and business partner Charlie Pettigrew, 'our clientele would canter right up to the bar if we let them'.

Much as thoughts of a line of thoroughbreds all quaffing pints of Hollow Bottom Best Bitter at the bar might appeal, our concern here has to be with the two-legged customers for whom Hollow Bottom is often second home.

Chef Charlie's pedigree in the culinary world, Young Scottish Chef of the Year, Marine Highland Troon, Claridges, Gleneagles, and the Savoy, is every bit on a par with the likes of Bindaree  who stopped by to celebrate his triumph at 20 to1 in the Grand National 2002. Ably supported by Karen, the pair of them are never far from considering what can be done to improve even further the egalitarian menus at Hollow Bottom.

The big event of the week (apart from racing successes at incredible odds) is the Sunday Carvery when the pub is filled to breaking point with jolly people enjoying this great traditional English repast with its associations of durability and elasticity, particularly in so far as the digestion and waistline are concerned.

At other times a wider cuisine prevails with a sumptuous prawn cocktail starter, duck in ginger wine sauce; crocodile; seabass with prawns and pine kernels; kangaroo; chicken and Stilton; veal with green peppercorn sauce as but a few samples of what you may find. Their homemade raspberry cheesecake is worth a visit in its own right and there are always specials available, drawn from an all-embracing list that is regularly changed by Charlie and Karen.

It would be fair to say that what is on display at the bar equals in importance what emerges from the kitchens. At draught level expect to find London Pride alongside Gloucestershire Ales from Goffs, North Cotswold and Stanway, and Cotswold Premium lager. The ones to watch are the draught ciders, amongst which are Thatcher's Scrumpy and Addlestone's Cloudy, both of which have mercifully continued to escape any attentions from health and safety, the new growth industry.

An excellent wine list rises to every occasion, with Krug in the lead by a long head.

A click will take you to their humorous and diverse Website, with details of accommodation and new menu items.