The Holly Bush Inn in the village of Salt, close by the River Trent, is seriously popular and seems to thrive, as many successful restaurateurs are aware of, on giving people what they like, not what you happen to think they ought to. Leave the education process to the subsidised elements of this world.

Furthermore, if you happen to be running the reputedly second oldest pub in the country, set in attractive country near a major conurbation, you are off to a head start anyway.

A visit on any weekday towards evening might reveal the true scope of their popularity with a friendly and diplomatic staff who manage the bar as well as the restaurant with admirable efficiency.

The menu could include starters of Staffordshire oatcakes stuffed with spiced black pudding and herby tomato sauce or pan fried calves liver in garlic butter with mixed leaf salad. Main courses number at least twelve on any day and top contenders for dish of the day could easily be the homemade steak and kidney pudding with a rich onion gravy, a traditional venison casserole cooked with home cured bacon, button mushrooms and red wine or the deep fried cod with mushy peas.

Should that not tickle your fancy there is the House mixed grill, a journey down memory lane with generous helpings of gammon, pork chop, sirloin steak, liver, kidney and not least the hand-made local sausages. The steaks, again from Mr Perry of Eccleshall, are a revelation with a 20 oz T-bone on the menu. For cheeses, think in terms of Fowlers of Earlswood, the oldest cheese making family in England.

The real ales are a revelation, with about four variations monthly, and a wine list offers fair choice at prices that will not spoil your appetite. There are no frills when it comes to the supporting tackle, though you can eat in the bar, and the dining room does make some concessions in that direction.

This may not be Michelin star country, but it is a place for hearty eaters who appreciate sound cooking, as well as a celebration of what Staffordshire can produce in the way of honest local ingredients. Whilst it has an array of awards to support this, the real proof lies in the overflowing car park.

The Holly Bush Inn is very proud of the fact that they were awarded Best British Food 2003 at the prestigious Publican Pub Food Awards. Hosted by celebrity chef Antony Worrall Thompson the ceremony was held on the 13th November at the Queen Elizabeth Centre, Westminster where Holly Bush Landlord Geoff Holland accepted the award.

For masses of additional information, do visit their extremely comprehensive and interesting Website.