Holly Bush Inn

The Holly Bush Inn, in the village of Salt, close by the River Trent is seriously popular and seems to thrive, as many successful restaurateurs are aware of, on giving people what they like, not what you happen to think they ought to. Leave the education process to the subsidised elements of this world.

Furthermore, if you happen to be running the reputedly second oldest pub in the country, set in attractive country near a major conurbation, you are off to a head start anyway.

We were there on a Tuesday evening and there was hardly a spare table to be had. A diplomatic and highly capable young man, who may well have been the manager leading from the front, was in the bar keeping things running smoothly and quenching any passions that might have arisen. A good mix of locals, and incomers like ourselves, mingled comfortably.

Dish of the Day, any day, is the steak and ale pie, groaning through being stuffed with the local Eccleshall butcher's excellent meat, and sumptuously lavished with a sauce that is made from real beer. Should that not tickle your fancy there is the House mixed grill, a journey down memory lane with generous helpings of each item, not least the hand-made local sausages.

The steaks, again from Mr Perry of Eccleshall, are a revelation with a 20 oz T-bone on the menu at £11.95. The shoulder of lamb was perfectly cooked and accompanying vegetables were the real thing, cooked al dente and not used as plate space filler.

For pudding, think in terms of John Knox assisted Staffordshire Blue cheese stuffed pears, which may be a starter but serves just as well on a pudding plate. A range of more conventional starters changes regularly.

The real ales are a revelation, with about four variations monthly, and a wine list offers fair choice at prices that will not spoil your appetite. There are no frills when it comes to the supporting tackle, though we eat in the bar, and the dining room does make some concessions in that direction.

This may not be Michelin star country, but it is a place for hearty eaters who appreciate sound cooking, as well as a celebration of what Staffordshire can produce in the way of honest local ingredients. Whilst it has an array of Awards to support this, the real proof lay in that overflowing car park.

The Holly Bush Inn is very proud of the fact that they were awarded Best British Food 2003 at the prestigious Publican Pub Food Awards. Hosted by celebrity chef Antony Worrall Thompson the ceremony was held on the 13th November at the Queen Elizabeth Centre, Westminster where Holly Bush Landlord Geoff Holland accepted the award.

For masses of additional information, do visit their extremely comprehensive and interesting Website.