We hear a great deal about recycling these days - du Vin recycles attractive but often un-loved buildings to restore real gems in the best tradition of British understated style.

Complement that with all that is best in the French bistro ethos, bars that reach out to please, and you have a setting that provides an inspirational background for people to meet, do business, get married, provide a base for golf or fishing, somewhere you can call your own for a private celebration, a spa or - most engagingly - a wine school that breaks the mould.

Think quintessential British style - elegant and unpretentious. Combine this with a great spirit, wit and an unquestionable devotion to wine, and you have captured the essence of Hotel du Vin.

In Henley-on-Thames, du Vin has taken on the façade of the former Brakspears Brewery, a handsome brick-built structure in the best style of such buildings, strategically placed in the heart of the historic town centre, yet only 50 yards from the riverside moorings. Within and around a unique luxury boutique hotel has been constructed. For instance the former fermentation room and old malt house have jointly provided the location for one of the three private dining rooms.

Forty three exquisite bedrooms and magnificent suites have been created in the old buildings encircling the old brewery yard, and this also houses the hallmark du Vin bistro.

Head Chef, Neil Falzon presides over the kitchen of this 2AA Rosette bistro servicing a menu of 'simple classics' supplemented by his own selections, depending overall on a European cuisine with a contemporary edge. Starters of soused herrings with beetroot carpaccio and celeriac rémoulade, poached duck egg with chorizo, tomato and chick peas, or Uist Lodge smoked salmon with Spanish caper berries set a firm tone before choosing from either the simple classic or main courses, or both.

The Hotel du Vin fish pie says all that is good about this wonderful dish, good for lunch or dinner, capable of many different forms. Moving to the main courses, from a choice of seven, in season the roast Yorkshire grouse, with fondant potato, crisp ham and orange jus, or a smoked haddock brandade with poached hen's egg and hollandaise is recommended.

Whilst one might argue that the whole point of being in a du Vin is to snuggle up to the wine list, this list is designed to march with the food and can only be described as superb. With a team of three sommeliers, headed here by Stephane Sanchez, there is no room for anything but the best. Service is telepathic in the best possible sense.

Click on their Website for full information and rates. Hotel du Vin, with fourteen options throughout Britain, awaits your call.