Built for Augustus Hayter 1623 this rather extraordinary house has changed so little over the centuries, the biggest being when it went through its "Swiss period" in the mid 19th century. Properly called Teffont Evias, it is a real piece of old England.

This characteristic finds its way into the restaurant, where Head Chef Nick Wentworth calls upon local ingredients whenever possible to service a menu that reflects strongly the surrounding countryside, season upon season, with frequent excursions into their own garden.

Starters could include Cornish scallop risotto with deep fried basil; fillet of brill, onion tart tatin with wild mushrooms, or cannon of lamb with goat's cheese tortellini. Follow with fillet of wild sea bass, saffron broth and pancetta beignet; fillet of Scottish beef, foie gras, rosti. confit Savoy cabbage and truffle jus, or fillet of cod, truffle mash, roasted cèpes and Merlot syrup.

A passion fruit curd soufflé with passion fruit consommé or a vanilla crème brûlée, Agen prunes with Armagnac are two of the most popular desserts and make a pleasant end to a meal that is well paced and served with grace.

The supporting cast in the form of the wine list, table setting and décor is exactly as you would expect of such a beautiful time-warp house. Described by Egon Ronay as "a little gem", this bastion of old England is a place to treasure. If you share it make sure it with people who can be relied upon to appreciate as much as you do. Howard's House deserves only the best.