Howies - Victoria

There are now several Howies scattered around the leading cities of Scotland, all offering broadly the same pattern of service, with four in Edinburgh. The Bruntsfield version occupies a former bank and specialises in the student fraternity and ladies who lunch from Morningside, that well-heeled Edinburgh enclave. For them Howies must be a godsend. Howies in Stockbridge make a useful rendezvous doubles up as a brasserie and latches on very firmly to the professionals, particularly the younger versions in that area. Victoria Street represents the flag in the student quarter and is also a mecca for the hundreds of thousands of tourists who enjoy Edinburgh for its unique flavour. There could hardly be a more marked contrast between there and the sedate, spacious premises at the foot of Calton Hill in Waterloo Place. The food is indeed Scottish, recognisable and comfortable, with just the right frisson of daring to make it different. The rib-eye steak, for instance, could have blue cheese dumplings for company and cranachan, a little-known but delicious Scots dessert features regularly on the menu. We often serve it at Burns Suppers to alleviate the other slightly drab traditional fare. The chefs at all four branches in Edinburgh have their own variations but in general a pattern is followed that is common to all. There is a suggestion in some quarters that the detail is not always right but this seems to be usually insufficient to spoil the whole and Howie goes marching on. So let's have more of them; with not bad house wine at £7.90 a bottle and other prices to match they represent decent affordable eating of quality.