Inn on the Pond, The

This delightfully located inn next door to the local cricket pitch looks out over Nutfield marshes, and has recently (2008) undergone a major restoration. This has included clearing out the pond itself by the Surrey Conservationists, during which the original sign marking the re-opening of the pond last time round by David Bellamy was found. No sign of Bellamy though.

I suppose the distinction between an inn and a pub used to be that an inn concentrated on hospitality and a pub on drink, but that went out of the window some time ago and the Inn on the Pond concentrates on both with great aplomb. Let's start with the food, where Chef Andy Maclean, as Scottish as he sounds, and a man of Ullapool, concentrates on straightforward value-for-money food with fresh ingredients, and where possible locally sourced.

Starters of smoked haddock chowder, Thai-spiced fishcakes with sweet chilli sauce and egg noodles, or for 2 or 3 people garlic and thyme whole baked Camembert with French bread, constitute a sturdy start to the meal, but my money is on the rosti cakes, crispy pancetta, with melted Gruyere and onion marmalade. Eggs and pasta gets a fair hearing, leading off with eggs Benedict, either single or double - now there's somebody with the right idea!

A classic Caesar salad comes with or without anchovies, as you require, and there's a bang bang chicken salad with sweet chilli and peanut dressing. Fish is well represented with traditional fish and chips and sea bass fillet and Parmesan crackling amongst the options.

British pies are renowned the world over, and here there is a traditional Pie of the Week served simply with roast potatoes, or from the same source the butcher's sausages with mustard mash and onion gravy. The slow cooking movement gains increasing momentum, if that is not too much of a contradiction, represented here by slow roasted lamb shank with gratin potatoes.

Home made burgers have made a real come-back now that their quality can be better trusted at reputable places as here. If the result of this renewal of faith is that a burger can sometimes cost perilously close to a small steak, so be it.

Let a Scotsman near the puddings and there's bound to be trouble - but of the best sort! Watch out for a citrus cheesecake with ginger nut base and passion fruit sauce, bread and butter pudding with rosemary ice cream, or the ever present sticky date pudding with toffee sauce further enlivened by Cornish clotted cream. And/or there is an enterprising selection of cheese including Ragstone, Stilton and Brie served with grape, apple and walnut salad and biscuits.

A serviceable wine list explores new wines without deserting the old favourites, and there are nine by the glass as well as champagne. For longer drinkers expect to find London Pride, Ruddles County, Old Speckled Hen and Morlands, or Stowford Press cider. In bottles they have Magners, Light Ale and Kaliber.

For details of the events programme at this exceptionally social-minded inn, a quick click on their Website will reveal all.