Located in the bustling Upper Street, Isarn's dining area is long and narrow but it's undeniably posh, nor is it inexpensive either, but that doesn't deter diners from thronging through its doors as they know they're in for something special. Huge lampshades with butterfly cut out motifs suspended above each table and black wood furniture adorn the interior of this smart restaurant.

The cooking is classical Thai merged with notes of modernity, there's crispy duck served with pomelo fruit and betel leaf, adding a citrusy bitter note, and on a cold evening there are a few things more heartening than a bowl of hot and sour soup with chicken and dill. For the main event, a vegetable green curry is kicked up with the flavours of Thai aubergine, tofu, bamboo shoots and sweet basil, whilst lamb chops with kaffir lime leaf and red curry may please ardent devotees of grilled meat.

Mango with black sticky rice and lemon cheesecake with strawberry ice cream marks the end of a fine Thai meal at Isarn.