Jamals's biggest virtue is its consistency. There are probably better Indian restaurants in Oxford, but Jamals keeps a steady centre of the road pace with tasty, well-spiced food to which none but the pickiest would take exception. The place is outstanding in one important respect and its Awards for cleanliness and hygiene are a big point in its favour.

As with so many Indian dishes the names do not always mean a lot, nor even the descriptions; often it is the subtlety of the spices that makes the meal, together with the friendly service. Quite unreasonably I tend to warm to those restaurants from which the balti is an absentee, yet even with that there is an impressive range from which to choose. So back to consistency, which in most people's vocabulary equals assurance, a quality that would guide me to Jamals for a pleasant meal amidst cheerful décor at any time.