Jenko's Mongolian Barbecue

As a faithful follower of the Mongolian Steamboat method of cooking my nose twitched when I heard that Jenko's Mongolian Barbecue had set up, in all unlikely places, at Ketley, an offshoot of the Industrial Revolution at Ironbridge, and now intersected by the dual carriageways of Telford, one of which narrowly misses the Compasses Inn.

So it was into the somewhat moribund bar of this establishment that we wended our way one evening to find one man and a dog - but literally, and not much else. But the twitching nose was on the job and through the bar we went into a magnificent log cabin capable of seating around 80 and full of jolly people of all ages having the time of their lives.

Young, friendly and very capable staff showed us to our table (reservations are recommended) and explained the form. Various options are available and we ended up with starters of fresh mushrooms cooked in a creamy wine and garlic sauce, and spicy chilli prawn cocktail with warm ciabatta.

Then it was delve-time as we chose from the wonderful buffet of meats, fish, vegetables, fruit, herbs and spices before adding the recommended two ladles-worth from the innumerable sauces and committing our bowls to the barbecue where Mark Jenkins, his son and an assistant stood over the great barbecue. By nature a little grunter, I had pre-ordered a massive steak which was waiting for me, perfectly cooked, to add to a not exactly unburdened plate.

Back at our table a bottle of claret kept a close eye on another of sauvignon blanc, but not for long as we allowed ourselves to be persuaded that yes, a bowl; of chips would make a very pleasing accompaniment, but you will promise not to show us the desserts menu, won't you. Some time later two empty plates and a bowl told their own tale - this may not have been haut cuisine but by heaven, it was fine sturdy eating for people who appreciate real food.

The delightful staff then came round and incited us to re-present ourselves at the barbecue for second helpings. But by this time the damage was done - just let's say the desserts come in four categories, three at £3.95 each, 1 at £4.95 each, and they are all totally irresistible. After one pannacotta raspberry and one After Eight Fusion, the contents of which make an Ulster Breakfast sound like a diet, we were at last replete.

They do Sunday lunches (£7 adults, £5 children, desserts £3, delivered to your door for just £1, private party nights, a traditional carvery 12-4 on Sundays and 12-2 on Wednesdays, and they are all such thoroughly nice, genuine people. Clearly everybody else there thought exactly the same.