Junction 28 is a tastefully decorated, converted railway station, with the lower part of the restaurant decked out to mimic an old-fashioned railway carriage. Given the current difficulty in finding a train at all, let alone one that actually welcomes passengers aboard, it is not altogether surprising that there is nearly always a scramble to find a seat on this elegant Pullman coach with its anchor firmly down, as you approach the station.

The menu reflects the modern British approach with some very imaginative dishes as it sets no real boundaries as it includes influences from around the world. Chinese chicken soup with dim sum and ginger, Risotto of spring vegetables and Italian cured ham with parmesan ice cream, terrine of rabbit with caramelised shallots and shitake mushrooms are all examples of starters.

Main courses include a brace of quails with caramelised pear and potato galette, locally smoked salmon on a creamed horseradish infusion with watercress pannacotta, ravioli of wild mushrooms with tender asparagus and chervil butter sauce. Moving away from the a la carte, which is always available, you would find a set menu with 6 or 7 choices on each course; this is prepared to the same standards whilst being priced from £16.25 for 3 courses in the evening and £13.95 for 3 courses at lunchtime.

Railway catering in general might take a leaf or two from Junction 28, particularly when it comes to the wine list, some eighty strong, with house wine at £13.50 and the main list very affordable. Perhaps there is something to be said for keeping your train immobile after all.

No wonder that this extremely popular and busy restaurant just recently won the South Wales Argus restaurant of the year, has 1 Rosette from the AA and is included in The Good Food Guide.