The British are noted for many things, not least that object of gastronomic derision, the humble sausage. Quite why this should be so beats me, after all the Germans also have a vested interest in the propagation of the banger, snorker or whatever other name you may care to give it. Perhaps it has something to do with the shape, but at Kathy's Bistro they are concerned less with the shape and far more with the contents, which leave me, a hardened connoisseur of this wonderful delicacy, totally impressed. In an age when black pudding has assumed respectability can the sausage be far behind?

It is the sheer range that is so impressive. Starting with might be termed as designer sausages no surprise to find the Australians up there with the kangaroo version, which will leave you jumping no doubt, followed by the ostrich variety which will just leave you - period. The Brits weigh in with the pheasant and whiskey version before we move on to tried and tested favourites from Lincolnshire, Cumberland and Newmarket. The best seller, believe it or not, is the South African traditional Boerewors. A welcome note of standardisation is reached by the accompaniments which are uncompromisingly mash, beans (as in baked), fried onions and gravy.

When I tell you that a normal helping of your chosen sausage consists of two quarter pounders at £7.95, whilst others may elect for the small at £6.95, which is just one, you will get the sense of scale. It is greatly to the credit of Kathy that they do cater for the less enthusiastic non-banger-fiends, with a good range of tapas and other more universally acceptable dishes.

No prizes for guessing that some of our more respected ales are on offer, along with the Hoegaarden on tap and a good range of New World wines. How refreshing to find someone taking a quirky, though I should think very profitable dig at some of the over-seriousness of our attitudes to food.