Kensington Arms, The

When the history of the rise (and fall?) of the gastropub comes to be written the authors could hardly have a better example than the Kensington Arms in Bristol.

Here was a sordid, student overrun, local pub. Since family life is centred elsewhere nowadays, and students are not renowned for their wealth, it is hardly surprising that the pub was going downhill - fast.

So along comes the 21st century solution, a transformation in rapid time, the self inflicted expulsion of those disenfranchised locals who still attended for the taking of drink, and a 'let's wait and see' welcome. This is always High Noon time for a new gastropub and the good news is that here it seems to be working despite £3 for a pint of beer but perhaps that will help keep the consumption to a level where theres some room for scholastic intake the following morning.

Grilled sourdough with Ortiz anchovies, red onion and Cornish butter makes a good quality starter. The risotto cake with smoked haddock, spinach and soft boiled egg is well reported upon, which is more than can be said for the skate and chips. Other main courses could include rump of lamb, white coco beans with red chicory and garlic cream, escalope of veal, steamed spinach, Royal Norfolk potatoes and Gorgonzola butter. For dessert hope that the Scottish raspberries with whisky and honey cream are still around.

Time will tell, but hopefully the refreshed Kensington Arms has risen to the spirits of the age and will keep everyone happy. If the food is anything to go by they should not have that much difficulty.