Kensington Arms

It does seem a trifle strange that a company with a restaurant in Cornwall should want to extend their empire into the fevered trading conditions of London, but it's certainly a welcome sight to see a taste of Cornwall on the menu of this beautifully refurbished former boozer.

Whilst the old pub frontage has been retained, former habitués of the place would be hard put to recognise it. This is refurb in great style.

The menu is traditional English with a few frills and furbiloes thrown in here and there. Starters are listed with the main courses, but it's all pretty obvious, and very well presented. Start with bubble and squeak soup and peppered clotted cream or mussels in a leek and cider cream.

Main courses are robust and generous, with scallops pan-fried alongside a warm salad of smoked bacon and new potatoes, a steak Cornish pasty or better still a Cornish fish pie.

Ploughmans are a life form here with a set scale for the number of items included, drawn from wild boar sausage, smoked mackerel, coarse pork pate or smoked trout. Cheese brings Cornwall into focus with Cornish Blue, St Christophers, St Endellion Brie and Yarg. A sound wine list offers a good by-the-glass contingent.