Bath, that architectural wonder of the world has many a good tale to tell, but what's the use of a tale to tell with nowhere to tell it? Problem solved, head for the King William where yet another broken-down ancient boozer has been given a new run for its money.

Run by newcomers to the trade, Charlie and Amanda Digney, the King Will keeps it simple, and keeps it good. Ingredients come from local sources whenever possible, and free range is a real plus point for Charlie, and whilst there is no pretence to fine dining as such, the food is wholesome, well presented and leaves the right sort of tastes where it matters.

The menu seldom stays the same and starters of devilled kidneys on toast await the venturesome, with scallops and bacon, terrine of pigeon and rabbit and beetroot and goat's cheese salad give attractive alternatives.

Mains in particular go with the seasons, and expect to find at the right time of the year and market, pheasants, rack of lamb and rib of beef, with goose fat potatoes, turnips, roast shallots and parsnips.

Fig and almond tart or plum and pear crumble, or a fine collection of English cheeses rounds off the meal well. Dishes are cooked to order, none of this waiting around in a warm cupboard stuff, and to go with your meal is a selection of wines by the glass or bottle that are kind to the palate and the purse.

Giles Coren, writing in The Times of 11 March, said, "The King William is a paragon of everything British eating is heading towards, and we cannot get there soon enough . . .".