Kings Arms, The

The Kings Arms is off to a good start with its location in a fine old English village, but at the heart of the entire operation is genuinely good food, wine and beer, all served at reasonable prices with charm and efficiency. In winter this is likely to be within proximity of a warming log fire, but in summer the garden beckons as those wonderful velvety evenings stay warm as the conversation rambles on.

Starters of fine red onion rings with roast garlic mayonnaise, hot garlic butter King prawns, with lemon crème fraiche and French bread, or a seafood platter for two (order 24 hours in advance for maximum freshness and variety), can be followed by eggs and pasta dishes or a salad, say roast beef and Stilton with vinaigrette, a croque monsieur or that great British institution, the bacon and egg sandwich.

Fish is often to be found on the menu, not least some highly mouth-watering fish and chips with beer batter and chunky chips. Main dishes offer a traditional homemade pie of the day, pan fried calves' liver with smoked back bacon, or half a roast Norfolk duck. Hand cut Scottish steaks come as ribeye, sirloin or fillet. Chateaubriand can be ordered in advance. All their meat has been hung for a minimum of 24 days.

A good range of side orders includes spiced red cabbage, spinach, steamed market-fresh vegetable of the day (could be broccoli), garden peas and several others, yes, including frites, just in case you were deterred by all that healthiness.

Puddings of whisky flavoured bread and butter pudding, Ric's fudgy brownie and chocolate mousse, or a delightful freshening lemon and lime citrus cheesecake bring events to a close.

The wine list is headed by house champagne and nine very drinkable reds or whites, all by the bottle or glass and at competitive prices. Australian reds and New Zealand whites show up well and it is always good to see South African contributions heading out of the political and commercial fog. With rosé coming back into fashion keep an eye lifted for bottles of Chateau Val Joanis from the Luberon.

For regular updates on their menus, new wines and events click on their very clear and informative Website.