Kings Arms, The

The Kings Arms is off to a good start with its location in a fine old English village, but at the heart of the entire operation is genuinely good food, wine and beer, all served at reasonable prices with charm and efficiency. In winter this is likely to be within proximity of a warming log fire, but in summer the garden beckons as those wonderful velvety evenings stay warm as the conversation rambles on.

Chef Anthony Phillips has created a menu that covers all eventualities and starters of the day's soup with crusty bread or homemade game terrine with onion bread jostle with Oriental crispy duck salad or cod and chorizo fishcakes. Three egg omelette and frites has a choice of two fillings from a selection of six, and pan-fried kidneys are served with a smoked bacon, caper and tomato sauce on toast.

Fish is always found on the menu, not least some highly mouth-watering fish and chips with beer batter and hand cut chips or grilled fillet of sea bream with crab kedgeree and a soft boiled egg.

Main dishes offer homemade pie of the day, pan fried calves' liver with smoked back bacon, or slow roast pork belly with bubble and squeak cake. Choose from a rump or rib eye in the steak section or simply enjoy some time-honored pub classics such as sausage and mash or a triple decker club sandwich.

Traditional roast topside of beef with rich red wine gravy, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and the vegetables of the day is dish for any day, in particular Sundays, and early booking is recommended.

A good range of side orders include spinach, steamed market-fresh vegetables, it could be broccoli, garden peas and several others, yes, including frites, just in case you were deterred by all that healthiness.

Puddings of burnt lemon cream with winter berry compote or a rich Italian chocolate tart with Tia Maria ice cream bring events to a close.

The wine list is headed by house champagne and nine very drinkable reds or whites, all by the bottle or glass and at competitive prices. Australian reds and New Zealand whites show up well and it is always good to see South African contributions heading out of the political and commercial fog. With rosé coming back in fashion keep an eye lifted for bottles of Chateau Val Joanis from the Luberon.

For regular updates on their menus, new wines and events click on their very clear and informative Website.