Kinnaird Estate

Kinnaird sits high in the valley of the Tay, an imposing but not threatening presence, much loved by its regulars and indeed by Constance Ward who owns and runs it impeccably. Surrounded by some 9,000 acres of family land it has a tremendously unspoiled aura.

Although the cuisine is described as Modern European there is more than a twist or two of French influence at work, with starters of crispy frog legs and a poached lobster ravioli to open the batting. The rump of lamb with yellow and fine beans, artichokes and pak choi shares pride of place with the skate wing braised with cider, spinach, saffron potatoes and brocoletti.

Amongst the desserts the blood nectarine filo tartlet not only sounds but also looks dramatic with its rosemary crème anglaise and black figs, though the piece de resistance surely has to be the pave of tanariva chocolate with pistachio and raspberries. The wine list draws its strength from around 440 bins that slumber in the cellar awaiting the call to action. This is not a cheap experience and prices start at £20.

There is an air of respectability that stops short of formality. No children under 12 years.