There are a lot of good things to be said about travel in Scotland, even if the famed midges-with-boots-on is not one of them. Fortunately there are many diverse ways of forgetting the midges, and indulgence at places like this much-loved seafood bar is high on the list. Set up in 1992 by Vivienne Rollo, who could never understand the difficulties placed in the way of those who wished to buy the local fish, it has never looked back.

In 1996 the present pleasant timber building with drop-dead views across the Sound to Skye replaced their first building and their fame has become international. The surrounding waters are teeming with some of the best seafood in the world, and they have now installed a lobster tank to ensure a steady supply at all times. Oysters, prawns and squat lobster are taken from Loch Kishorn, mussels and queen scallops from Lochcarron. Minimal preparation and cooking owes a great deal to Spain.

I can think of very few places where I would prefer to, let alone could, eat such wonderful seafood at prices that are, frankly from a different planet. Garlic scallops with croissant is the sort of treat you hallucinate about, and blasan bradan with its four different varieties of salmon is unbelievably good. The snack menu permits venison, beef and bacon to intrude on this otherwise piscine scene.

A licence ensures that the right beverage, be it wine or beer, is on hand to complete the pleasure of a meal at this wholesome, friendly and thoroughly admirable outpost of quality and value.