Kitchin, The

As sure as the Lord made little apples good food follows political conurbations, and Edinburgh is no exception. There may, of course, be no connection between the new Scottish Executive office and the establishment of one of the most exciting new restaurant scenes in the city for some time in its shadow. It matters not. What does is that Edinburgh-born Tom Kitchin, who has spent more than a decade working alongside people of the calibre of Pierre Koffman and Alain Ducasse, has opened his eponymous doors, offering food of character and integrity to a city where the competition, it has to be said, is pretty intense.

Front of house is a French maître d' whose warmth of welcome and sense of diplomacy must surely appeal to politicians and others alike. After such a good start it is comforting to find that, if anything, things get even better. There is the customary lunch of value, with three courses at £15.50, a bar snack menu that is a master of brevity, and the a la carte, which is sheer joy.

Dishes are based on the produce of the season - in Scotland, not some far-flung corner of the globe, and starters of mackerel come in the form of a tartare of this vastly under-rated fish, with quail egg, cucumber and beetroot dressing, served with curly Melba toast.

A main course of de-boned chicken is filled with artichoke and spinach, then served with potato gratin and a light tarragon jus. For dessert, if you can avoid the temptations of a Scottish and French cheese selection, try the delightful gratin of red fruits with vanilla ice cream.

In the capital city of a country that prides itself rightly on its ability to produce one of the finest spirits known to man, it never fails to amaze me that wine lists are invariably of a high order, and The Kitchin maintains that standard impeccably.

A galaxy of impressive press reviews has accompanied the opening of this newcomer. Long may Tom and Michaela continue to add zest to the Edinburgh scene.