Set in an historic lakeside country house in South Devon, within easy distance of what their brochure aptly describes as the Maritime City of Plymouth, Kitley House Restaurant has a good deal going for it. The view for instance - with overtones that suggest a sylvan setting miles from anywhere, whilst you dine in the former library with its rich décor of burgundy and gold, with marble columns in each corner of the room. In her introduction Viv Marshal, Kitley House chef says, 'Let me take the pressure off you with my creative cooking, using only local produce...People still eat with their eyes...'

And how right she is. The dinner menu at Kitley ranges over an appealing list of options that includes grilled scallops garnished with peas and broad beans with a smoked saffron and white wine velouté, and goats' cheese and Bramley apple tart with dressed green leaves.

Seared and sliced pigeon breast is served over a beetroot and raspberry relish with parsnip crisps and balsamic syrup, or there's a delicious leek and potato soup drizzled with double cream and curry oil.

For the main event baked duck breast carved over a pineapple and butternut squash chutney is accompanied by rösti potato and French beans. In the opinion of some, sea bass has become almost too familiar but a good deal depends on the company it keeps. At Kitley this means spring onion and citrus mash, sweet pepper, tomato and chilli jam and asparagus spears, giving good lift to this inherently appealing fish. The skill of the kitchen is well shown in the char-grilled sirloin steak with confit potato and a cassoulet of wild mushroom and cherry tomatoes.

A new twist to an old classic is given with the rhubarb and champagne crumble with chunky ginger ice cream.

It is always good to see the dishes of one's youth presented in a way that not only makes them totally edible, which was not always the case, but also has you coming back for more. Take sticky date pudding, or more improbably, creamy rice pudding with a dollop - their words - of strawberry jam.

Sunday lunch is a weekly festival at Kitley House, well worthy of your attendance. With a choice of four main courses, roast sirloin of beef, roast pork, délice of grilled salmon and a vegetarian option, the bread and butter pudding is joined by sherry trifle and sticky toffee pudding.

A concise wine list spans the globe with a good selection available by the glass.

Be sure to visit their attractive and informative Website, showing only too clearly what an appealing place Kitley House is.