Knaypa, The

The ever growing input of people from Poland into our multiracial community in Britain have brought with them their customs, language and by no means least their eating preferences. Restaurants such as The Knaypa (translation, 'a good place to go out to') have sprung up to deal with this, with the result that another national cuisine has been added to our already formidable list. Whether it will ever achieve the cult status of, shall we say, Thai cooking, remains to be seen. Meanwhile at The Knapya, they offer the robust country flavours of Central Europe alongside lighter dishes that fuse Polish ingredients prepared with finesse from the West. To achieve this aim they are fortunate to have the modern flair of a highly talented chef in the form of Dariusz Koch, whose previous experience embraces time well spent in notable London restaurants.

There are two dining areas, both seating 35 people. The ground floor is contemporary with pale wooden flooring and red leather seating, with plenty of crisp white linen, sparkling glass and gleaming cutlery on display. Downstairs one is translated into an old Silesian inn, full of rustic promise, with dark wooden furniture and broody lighting. A marked contrast is the hand carved wooden platters used belowstairs, bringing a touch of conviction to the whole ensemble. When it comes to the menu it is immediately apparent that Dariusz has done a great job in bringing together east and west. Where nuances of interpretation arise, as in dumplings, let's say - and Polish cuisine is big on dumplings - due deference has been paid.

From a choice of eight starters it is a temptation to select on a national basis, which would be to lose the wonderful freemasonry of cuisinal compilation. Salty sheep's milk cheese smoked over the embers is served sliced with cranberries and onion chutney, and will have the vegetarians enthusing all the way to the water jug. Smoked salmon served with lettuce and lemon wedges takes us in spirit to Scotland, but herrings served with tomato relish, apple and onion sauce and creamed horseradish represents a triumph of co-operation. The same could be said of a main course, pan fried wild boar loin served with buckwheat cereal and vegetables in season. Yes, plenty of home-made dumplings too. The ones that really got to me were filled with veal and served with confit onion and smoked bacon.

Those wishing for the full Polish experience could do little better than go for the shared dish for two of pan fried breaded pork chop, home made dumplings, sauerkraut stew, golabki and white sausage served with boiled potatoes.