Every now and again a change from more sober establishments is in order, and this is just what's on offer at King's Lodge. The lighting is rigged to gently shift the mood, there is live jazz piano, the décor is cool and the fine art demands a second, or even third glance. The zing factor is high and matches the food which is audacious and up-to-the-minute. It takes confidence to pair up black pudding with smoked trout. Many take the view that there's nowt wrong with chips as long as they are good ones, and here is ample evidence to support that view. And if you have never combined bread and butter pudding with honey ice cream, well, there's always a first time. An OK wine list with house wine at £9.25.