In the land of the party conference and the home of the kiss-me-kwik hat one is hardly surprised to come across a restaurant called Kwizeen except that - wait a bit - the food and, yes, everything about the place is good. When you read that Alice Thomson of the Daily Telegraph was unashamedly planning a return visit to demolish another of their seafood platters you know that you have indeed stumbled across a real find.

Not only is the food as challenging as the name and the décor, it is incredibly enjoyable and remarkably fairly priced. Take for instance venison in chocolate and chilli sauce or, if you'd rather not take it, perhaps the fillet of sea-bass with a ginger butter sauce? Morecambe Bay shrimps tend to come with garlic and served warm in a crisp Parmesan cheese basket. Nor are we anywhere near nouvelle cuisine here, at least not in the sense that most of understand it. Helpings are designed for men - and women - with hearty political or outdoor appetites. You will not fade away, rest assured.

Desserts are slightly less surreal than some other dishes. A two-course set lunch for £8.50 sounds amazing value, but it's true I assure you. A nifty wine list, perhaps a touch short on numbers but strong on quality will further make your day, nor are the house Californians to be sniffed at from £10. At last Blackpool has a reliable quality restaurant, unstuffy and fun, which fills a slot long vacant.