La Becasse

This addition to the culinary oasis that is still Ludlow, despite a few losses recently, is the latest addition to the collection of Alan Murchison of Michelin-starred L'Ortolan, with Chef Will Holland leading the team at the stoves.

Initial reports are promising from this well set up restaurant with its stout stone walls and warm panelling. Nothing is left to chance with the table settings either, and quality prevails. Possibly that is why they have also been awarded a Michelin star for 2009.

Their five course market menu draws its produce from a 30 mile radius of Ludlow, probably a first for that richly endowed area, and is available to their internet customers who make a reservation.

Leaving on one side the menu du jour, the gourmand menu and the Sunday lunch, let's dwell upon the à la carte with four choices per course. Starters of twice baked Shropshire blue soufflé with caramelised walnuts, truffle honey and a pinot noir reduction, make a suitable foundation for roasted breast of Breckland duck, seared foie gras, butternut squash, caramelised apple, honey and ginger juice, followed by spiced Madeira cake, saffron and chocolate crème, caramelised pear and anise ice-cream, or a prune and Armagnac soufflé with bitter chocolate sorbet.

Their Sunday lunch, by the way, has been declared a Yorkshire pudding free zone - a thoroughly retrograde step in my view, but I suppose you can't have everything.