A delightful piece of France on Old Brompton Road, La Bouchee evokes an era when salmon was a fish, not just a colour. The relaxed atmosphere has won a large following of local diners, who seem to positively admire the rustic clutter of weathered wood, antiques, candles and other bric-a-brac. Good food seems to be the winner here matched by a wine list that is packed with surprises.

Some things never go out of style on French menus, like snails with garlic and parsley butter and terrine of foie gras, but that doesn't mean there is no room for innovation; think smoked salmon, trout and mackerel set in shellfish jus with leeks and toasted brioche. The subsequent course is a delight as well with homemade chicken white pudding with roasted pistachios and Madeira sauce and roasted red leg partridge, sauerkraut, wild mushrooms, smoked Alsace bacon and brandy jus. At dessert time a chestnut crème gateau with spices and a dark chocolate sorbet may draw interest.