In the heart of London's Mayfair, close to the landmark luxury hotels The Dorchester and The Ritz, La Brasserie Mayfair is the newest acquisition by the owners of Fakhreldine, and rather unsurprisingly specialises in modern European food, majoring on the best of France, Italy and Spain, an attractive trio when it comes to matters of culinary distinction.

At the helm of this landlocked temple to Copia and Bacchus is Italian chef Erik Paternoster. His aim has been, and remains so, to create a restaurant that mirrors a modern-day French restaurant. However, he will sometimes smilingly refer to his Mediterranean Brasserie. So no red and gold but a monochrome theme, reflecting informality. Whilst enjoying your meal you can watch a range of top musicals or listen to the soundtracks of you favourite old musicals.

Despite its 80 covers La Brasserie soon fills up with guests anxious to enjoy a number of dishes ranging from the exotic to the simply gorgeous. If I wasn't already a hopeless addict when it came to prawns I would fall for gambas "pil pil", prawns cooked in bubbling oil, chilli, garlic and parsley. A classic salade Niçoise revolves round a French style tuna salad, composed of red onions, green beans, boiled eggs, capers, anchovies and black olives.

Down amongst the big boys a simple fillet of cod, pan fried, is blessed with braised leeks and a parsley sauce. One could hardly ask for a more straightforward dish, yet it's the twinning that counts here. The same goes for spaghetti with garlic, tomato sauce and basil. A poulet Paillard with roast new potatoes and spinach carries a hint of true country cooking using the best of ingredients and allowing them to make their contribution over time rather than being blasted to anonymity amidst a host of choices.

None of the countries that contributes to La Brasserie Mayfair can be said to be short of ideas when it comes to dessert time. Two classics, an Italian tiramisu and the much loved crème brûlée are always in demand, and the meal can be even more enjoyably extended by an assiette de Fromages.

The menu is made up of only 15 dishes including starters and main courses, and five desserts. For those accustomed to lengthy menus that can leave you baffled and with a feeling of deprivation, this might at first glance seem to be a challenge. But look closer and the clever way in which the tastes and flavours have been linked becomes more apparent. Add to this the fact that the prices are gentle on the pocket

Whoever selected the wines had no need to travel beyond the three countries either, and they chose well, picking wines that respond to the theme of simplicity - and integrity. For those in need of something a touch different, jugs of Sangria Espanola, sometimes described as the national drink of Spain are very much in evidence.

Their Website will tell you more about this coming together of three star European countries that have so much to offer in terms of culinary pleasure.